History in Paraguayan Notes (Part 1)

Before we left Mendoza we gad a small "paleo" wine tasting. Sheryl, from Looks good on Paper and Jeff are paleos too, so we all had a chance to show off our grain free tapas. Another paleo buddy came too, he collects bills from different places, so I showed him some Paraguayan money I had left over from my last visit. Sheryl suggested I do a post on the money because the notes were so colorful. Good idea.

I was a little embarrassed when I realized I didn't know who a single person was on any of the them, so this post is not only on the notes, but on who's on them. A fitting post I'd for the Paraguayan Bicentennial! I'll try to keep the theme.

In Paraguay, we call our money the Guarani, like the language.  Paraguay has 2 national languages: Castellano and Guarani. This may be common in many countries in Latin America, but only in Paraguay is the native Language widely spoken. Taught in school, but learned mostly on the streets and at home, there are more people that speak Guarani than Castellano.

Politicians, presidents, executives, celebrities, housewives, teachers all speak Guarani openly and publicly. Paraguayans embrace their native language to the extent of creating a whole other dialect: Jopara, the mix of Castellano and Guarani.

Exchange Rates

Of course vary day to day, but Paraguayan currency doesn't have "cents". Today, the exchange rate to the US dollar is roughly 1USD to 3500 Guaranies. In Argentina, 1Peso = 900 Guaranies, or Gs. for short.

Who's on What?

 

Major General Lopez (front)

Currently a note out of circulation, but replaced with a coin with the same symbols. The front of the Mil'i (little 1000 in Jopara) note depicts Major General Francisco Solano Lopez Carrillo (aka Mariscal Lopez).

 the new coin (heads)

This was a good idea, I've seen notes circulating that look like this:

 Su Guarani (in Guarani).

Born in Asuncion on July 24 1826, he was Paraguay's second constitutional president.  In 1853 he was appointed as ambassador to several European countries, including France, the UK and Spain to try to get these countries to recognize Paraguay as an independent state.  He also had the task of purchasing weapons and other stuff  you need for one of the the bloodiest war in Latin America for the military. 

In Paris, he met Elisa Alicia Lynch, with whom he had 7 children. Madame Lynch would also be an important character in Paraguayan history.

Portrait of Lopez

Summary of the Triple Aliance War:  La Guerra Grande

At the time, Brazil had strong political influence in Uruguayan politics. Too strong. The Major General  diplomatically requested Argentina to pass through their territory to send troops to Montevideo. Argentina said no.

If you've ever tried to negotiate with an Argentine, you know how difficult this can be. Of course, negotiations failed and Mcal. Lopez invaded the Argentine province of Corrientes to try to get to Uruguay.

This was already part of the plan. Argentina (and Brazil) wanted to pick a fight, and Uruguay was bait.

Uruguay was begging for help from the Paraguayan army, freshly equipped with weapons of war.  But  their clamor was false. Brazil's White Party was thriving in Uruguay and they were fine with it, and along with Argentina and Brazil, they wanted a piece of Paraguay. They all wanted a piece of Paraguay's growing economy and self sufficiency.

A secret treaty was signed in England among other political factors started what history calls The Triple Aliance War. Paraguay was utterly, defeated, losing territory and most of the male population. The war came to an end when Lopez was shot in the chest. 

This war destroyed everything Carlos Lopez and Dr Francia's (a pre-constitutional leader) dream of Paraguay, a self-sufficient country (as Paraguay is landlocked) by imposing high levels of isolation from neighboring countries.

This war eliminated almost 3/5 of the population. A Paraguayan soldier late in the war on sentry duty at López' headquarters was lucky to have a worn-out musket. As the war dragged on, some Paraguayan soldiers entered combat without weapons and were expected to arm themselves from those of fallen comrades.

The Alliance invaded Asuncion an won the war long before it was over. After the Argentine General, Bartolome Mitre stepped down, Frenchman Gaston de Orleans was now General of the Alliance. Although married, he was a known homosexual. When he discovered that his Brazilian lover was killed in battle, he took it personal. Solano Lopez had to die.

Tired of watching their fathers slaughtered and mothers and sisters raped. Young boys bravely begged to fight.  The Alliance set out to destroy Lopez. They chased him up to Cerro Cora where he as finally killed.

His last words were "I die for my country!", he knew then that his death meant the war's end.

This is really interesting- but I digress. Back to money.

National Pantheon of the Heros (Back)

In October of 1863, while Mcal. Lopez was president. He started the construction of the Oratory of the Virgin of the Asuncion. Today it's the National Heros' Pantheon, where all  Paraguayan heros;  men, women and children are buried.

Designed by Italian architect Alejandro Ravizza, local historians say it was inspired in "Les Inválides" where the remains of Napoleon Bonaparte rest. Construction was interrupted by the Triple Alliance War, and it was not until after the Chaco War (Paraguay vs. Bolivia) more than 70 years later. It was inaugurated on October 12, 1936

In 2009, the Pantheon was chosen as one of Asuncion's Cultural Patrimony, and Asuncion was elected Culture Capital of Continental America (yes, North AND South).

This important cultural landmark is a national gem. It is customary in Asuncion that when something historic happens (like the Bicentennial) people flock with their flags to the street in front of it and celebrate the event.

The ceremonial changing of the guard is held several times a day.

the Pantheon, all lit up fancy for the Bicentennial

The Bus Note: 2000 Gs.

I call it the bus note for 2 reasons: 1) Taking a bus costs you 2,300Gs 2) It's made of polymer so it can withstand the hos summer sweaty bus driver hands.

FRONT: Celsa and Adela Speratti, kick ass teachers.

Paraguayan history is not all blood and war.  Adela Speratti was born in Asuncion in 1865, her sister was born three years later. Their father had been killed in battle like all the other men so doña Dolores de Speratti decided to take the girls and go look for work in Buenos Aires, as Paraguay had been devastated by war.

Years later, in Uruguay both recieved scholarships to study at a prestigious, and extremely progressive teacher training institute.

In 1890,  the government called for educators, particularly women. Adela and Celsa returned to Paraguay to make history. Adela went on to become the first director of the National School of Educators

The sister contributed greatly Paraguay's education system. Despite the lack of mass means of communications, they gave a freat number of "campesinos" (people of agriculture that had little access to education due to distances) and young people in Asuncion, specially women. They taught thousands of young women to read and write. 

There were very little men left after the war, reconstructing Paraguay was left in the hands of women. Today over 95% of the population can read and write.

Mokõi Se Guarani

The 5000 Guarani note

(front) Don Carlos Antonio Lopez.

Last time I checked you could get a cheap pack of 20 cigarettes, 2 empanadas or a 2 liter Coca cola. Paraguayan's favorite vices.

Carlos was born in Asuncion on November 4, his parents wanted him to be a priest and send him off to study theology and philosophy.  After he dropped out, he went to law school, graduated and then became a professor at the university. 

In March of 1944, the first constitution was written and Don Carlos Lopez was became the first Paraguayan president. He was re-elected for a second term, but unfortunately died the third year.

Paraguay thrived during his presidency. The national railway, the first part at least, the navy, first national iron production in Ybucu'i, promoted commerce with France, The US and UK, over 300 schools. He made education free for everyone, the National Anthem,  reformed agriculture for mass production. He also gave native Indians citizenship, the first newspaper: The Paraguayan Independent. Most importantly, under his  term, many many countries recognized Paraguay as an independent state.

back: Palacio de los Lopez

On the back of the note, there's a picture of the presidential palace, Palacio Lopez.  

The front of the building, facing the river Paraguay

The back, facing Asuncion.

front, illuminated

back, illuminated

Bicentennial light works

In my next post I'll tell you about the rest, the 10,000, 20,000, 50,000 and the 100,000. notes  Also, please go to facebook and like my page, it really means a lot to me :).